The Glut Is a Gift (If You Act Fast)

You turn your back for a weekend in July and suddenly the courgette plants have produced marrows. One day they are finger-sized; the next they are the size of a baby's arm. Big courgettes are watery and seedy, but do not compost them. Cook them down with onions, vinegar and spices into a chutney that will sit in the cupboard for months. This is seasonal home cooking at its most practical: turning a glut into jars of something that tastes far better than anything you can buy.

A Reliable Courgette Chutney Recipe

This recipe makes about five 300ml jars. It is forgiving, so do not worry if your courgettes weigh a little more or less. You will need a large heavy-based pan – a preserving pan is ideal, but a stockpot works. The key is to cook the mixture slowly until it is thick and glossy, not watery.

• 1.5kg courgettes, topped, tailed and cut into 1cm dice (no need to peel)
• 500g onions, peeled and finely chopped
• 2 cooking apples, peeled, cored and diced (or 1 tbsp lemon juice)
• 300ml cider vinegar or malt vinegar
• 300g light brown sugar
• 1 tbsp yellow mustard seeds
• 1 tbsp ground ginger
• 1 tsp ground turmeric
• 1 tsp chilli flakes (optional)
• 2 tsp salt

Put the courgettes and onions in a colander, sprinkle with salt and leave for 30 minutes. This draws out excess water, the secret to a thick chutney. Rinse and pat dry. In your pan, combine vinegar, sugar, mustard seeds, ginger, turmeric, chilli and apples. Simmer, stirring until sugar dissolves. Add the courgettes and onions. Simmer uncovered for 1 to 1.5 hours, stirring often, until thick enough to hold a channel when you drag a spoon through. It will darken to a rich amber colour.

Making It Your Own: Spices, Sweetness and Heat

Once you have made the base recipe, adjust it to suit your taste. Cider vinegar gives a softer, fruitier note; malt is sharper and more traditional. Avoid distilled vinegar unless you want a harsh bite. Dark brown sugar gives molasses depth; demerara is lighter. For a hotter chutney, add a finely chopped fresh chilli or a teaspoon of smoked paprika.

• For a curry-house flavour, add 1 tsp cumin seeds and 1 tsp coriander seeds, toasted and ground.
• For a festive version, use 100g of the sugar as honey and add a cinnamon stick while simmering.
• For a sharper, piccalilli-style relish, add 200g of finely diced cauliflower and 1 diced red pepper in the last 20 minutes.

Remember that chutney is not an exact science. Taste it after an hour. If it is too sharp, add a little more sugar. If it is too sweet, a splash more vinegar. The aim is a balance of sweet, sour, salty and spicy.

Quick Courgette Relish for the Fridge

If you do not want to sterilise jars or wait for chutney to mature, make a quick relish instead. This is a fresh, crunchy condiment that keeps for two weeks in the fridge. It is excellent with cheese, cold meats, or in a sandwich.

• 500g courgettes, grated
• 1 onion, grated
• 2 tsp salt
• 100ml white wine vinegar
• 2 tbsp caster sugar
• 1 tsp mustard powder
• 1 tsp turmeric

Mix the courgettes, onion and salt in a bowl and leave for 20 minutes. Squeeze out as much liquid as you can – a clean tea towel helps. In a small pan, warm the vinegar, sugar, mustard and turmeric until the sugar dissolves. Add the squeezed vegetables and simmer for just 3-4 minutes. Do not overcook; you want them to retain a little bite. Spoon into a clean jar, cool, and refrigerate. It will thicken slightly as it sits.

Jars, Sterilising and Safe Keeping

Proper sterilising is not difficult, but it is essential for chutney that will sit in a cupboard for a year. Wash your jars and lids in hot soapy water, rinse well, then place them upside down on a baking tray in an oven at 140°C (120°C fan, gas mark 1) for 20 minutes. Fill them while they are still hot. Use a funnel or a jug to avoid messy drips. Seal immediately with a vinegar-proof lid – a plastic-coated metal lid is fine. As the chutney cools, the lid may pop inwards, which is a good sign. Store in a cool, dark cupboard for at least four weeks before eating. The flavour mellows and deepens. Once opened, keep in the fridge and use within a month.

Small-Space Growing to Avoid Overwhelm

If you only have a balcony or a small patio, you can still grow courgettes – but choose your varieties carefully. Look for compact or bush types, such as 'Patio Star' or 'Midnight', which are happy in a 30-litre pot. One plant per pot is enough; courgettes are greedy feeders and need plenty of water. Pick the fruits when they are 10-15cm long, and check every other day in peak season. The more you pick, the more the plant produces. If you miss one and it turns into a marrow, do not despair: grate it, squeeze out the water, and add it to the chutney pan. That is the whole point of this kind of cooking. It is not about perfection; it is about making the most of what the season gives you.